A delectable feast of parmigiano and (justified) self hype - Casa Maria Luigia Modena - Trade Reservations
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🙂 4/5 - A delectable feast of parmigiano and (justified) self hype
By 👻 @Filippo C, 11/25/2021 3:00 am
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The food is out of question. Some people care about the bill. I am lucky not to have to, so my criticism isn’t about value, price, etc, but about the overinflated image and personality cult built around Mr Bottura (who wouldn’t have one, if named worlds best chef?)
Bottura the genius, Bottura the benefactor, Bottura the socially conscious, Bottura the sustainable, etc etc
Admittedly, as he said to us during dinner, success is a mortal sin in Italy, and maybe as a fellow
Italian I am just condemning his sin.
But why did he have to sport his success to his diners? There’s nothing Franciscan about it…
On absolute terms, the culinary experience is delectable, the social setting is outstanding with communal tables and plenty of opportunities to make good conversation and friends
Personal taste is personal, and the best dish to me was the final tortellini, more conventional than the other more ‘creative’ dishes, yet infinitely more honest to heritage and to the taste of Emilia than the other plates on offer.
As said, what i found less tasteful about the experience was the obsession with storytelling, the similarities made between the artwork and the food, and lots of unnecessary bla bla bla, which works for finer brains than mine, I guess, but not for empty stomachs. Thats what people cone for, I guess…
Ultimately if the philosophy is simplicity, the food should speak for itself, even to the uneducated and stupid
Mr Bottura, as I said above, is kind enough to make his appearance, chat with customers and take pictures. Some chefs at his level shun away from human contact. Bravo to him
The feel, however, is that this is an experience catered chiefly for Americans -and other non-Italians of Anglo-Saxon culture- who are over joyed taking pictures of him (i took one, by the way) saying the usual jokes, listening to the hagiography made by his sous chefs, that characterizes a larger than life Italian bon vivant genius, which he most probably is.
I doubt they dare boasting such grandeur to Italian customers in Italian, as they probably retain a good sense of ridicule
The executive chef , a lovely Canadian girl, depicted Southern Italy in a way that i found cute but somewhat derogatory, full of common places, involuntarily bordering racism, something southern people in Italy are accustomed to, regrettably
Unlike a conventional restaurant experience, there is no room for criticizing or questioning, rather it is assumed that everyone comes here to the shrine to pray.
There wasn’t much to criticize, though, about the concept and food, which are an Italian uber excellence and remind us that cuisine is not about making wild herbs and insects edible, but about heritage, products, inventiveness and technique
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