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🙂 4/5 - Inches away from greatness
By 👻 @HavoLibre, 01/24/2024 3:00 am
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Very picturesque venue with spacious indoor and outdoor seating area. Seemingly a full-Italian or at least full-Italian speaking team. Elegant uniform. High professionalism from beginning to end. All very much on par with 2 Michelin Stars and Bulgari. Since it’s a 2-star, it would be ridiculous not to try the degustation menu. Went for the 8-course option and started with an Americano Chinato. Tamarind soda was a subtle but certainly perceived touch. Delightful Prosecco foam on top to round out the bitterness of the Americano. You wouldn’t expect anything less from a classic Italian cocktail at this place. Starting with a vegetable consommé with a drop of olive oil and a micro sage leaf before the menu to open up the palate. Light, warm, comforting. Three types of breads are served separately to the table. It’s exactly what you would expect from a restaurant of this calibre (if not better). The baked bread is excellent: apparently using two types of imported flour and resembles a sourdough. First course is a warm lobster with celeriac puree and thin slices of celeriac, frisée salad, and pink peppercorn. Delicious, but not particularly outstanding. Followed with a dish consisting of mushrooms, hazelnuts, and Parmigiano Reggiano. Delicious again indeed, but slightly too heavy for my palate. This would be a bit of a recurring theme for the degustation menu. Roasted tuna belly, pumpkin allumettes, orange dressing. Wonderful dish. The tuna belly was a bit fatty, but it’s perfectly incorporated with the citrus dressing and the lightly acidity pumpkin allumettes. I thoroughly enjoyed this fantastic dish. Spaghettoni, scampi, Manteca butter, anchovies and marjoram. Equally fantastic as the tuna dish. Trout, almond, figs and bay leaf. A piece of trout stuffed with some figs and covered in a rather heavy sauce. I didn’t like this dish a lot since the flavour combination was rather bizarre. Everything was cooked properly and at Michelin level, obviously. However, I felt like the ingredients didn’t work together. Possibly because I’ve never been exposed to this very specific flavour profile. I guess it’s more of a personal preference thing. I am more exposed to, say, “generic” Italian cuisine with no particular regional focus. As far as I understand, Niko Romito’s menu is largely more region-specific. The fact that we are in Dubai does not do any good to a region-specific menu either: which ingredients should you import from Italian and which ingredients should you source locally? Sadly, this dilemma haunts so many top restaurants in Dubai. Chose to try a mocktail called Cashmere. Coconut, apple, raspberries, Indian curry. Interesting combination of flavours. On the sweeter side, but perfectly balanced. The curry taste is noticeable for the first half of the drink. With dilution, it goes away rather quickly. A small shame. But such is the nature of dilution. Cauliflower steak with hazelnuts. A dish that features cauliflower in multiple textures. Delicious, but again just a little bit over the edge with the heaviness. Beef tenderloin medallion with green peppercorn sauce. I didn’t enjoy this dish too much. It was a fair dish, but the beef itself was slightly underwhelming. Seemingly slow-cooked (no sear on top and bottom), the beef itself did not have a lot of flavours. The peppercorn sauce was ok and nothing special. A rather lacklustre dish in my opinion. Pre-dessert is beetroot in different textures. Again, fair pre-dessert. Chocolate and gold for dessert. Fantastic. Not much to say. Ending the dinner with an Italian version of a softer choux pastry dusted with granulated sugar, and filled with vanilla pastry cream. Some lemon-infused water as a final palate cleanser. The gentleman was kind enough to bring out a small glass of digestif made with chocolate liqueur and Branca Mentha which was very, very good. Unfortunately I just couldn’t finish the digestif. Overall, I felt like the degustation menu deviated a bit from my usual palate. However I have to admit that I did spent the afternoon drinking a white wine with a very high level of acidity: probably messed up my digestive system a bit and killed off a bit of my appetite. But the point still stands that, at the very least, the bigger format of the degustation menu was tolling on the stomach. The culinary skills of the kitchen team is not to be questioned, obviously. Perhaps I would have enjoyed my dinner a lot more going with a la carte or rather the shorter format of the degustation menu. Very unfortunately, Il Ristorante Niko Romito does not compare well against Trèsind Studio and Stay by Yannick Alléno. Trèsind Studio is a lot more robust and sometimes goes all-out with the flavour combinations and the element of theatre. Stay by Yannick Alléno boasts a more elegant European style yet not necessarily too reserved: symphony of flavours combined with classy aesthetics. Strangely, Il Ristorante Niko Romito has a rather lower level of aesthetics when it comes to plating: perhaps because of a seemly excessive use of sauces on certain dishes. There’s a certain pattern that some dishes followed back-to-back, building up some fatigue with the food: mentally and physically. Still a restaurant with very high standards, but as far as the menu is considered: probably not the best 2-star set menu you’ll find. A very sad 4 out of 5: it was just a little bit underwhelming. Almost there but not quite. I hate to say this but Il Ristorante Niko Romito is nothing special.
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