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🤮 1/5 - Consideration
By 👻 @Eelco S, 10/17/2023 3:00 am
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Following the program "24 Kitchen: Remarkable Places to Eat," we dined at Mugaritz on Saturday, September 23rd. Our expectations were high. Even before we left our home in the Netherlands, there was contact made to inquire about any specific food preferences we had. Coincidentally, both of us dislike the taste of cilantro, which we indicated. Apart from that, we are open to trying everything. The beginning of the evening was exactly as we had seen in the program, with a warm welcome on the terrace and an explanation of the dining concept. We were served four dishes on the terrace. A stone with two sprigs of thyme (or at least, that's what it looked like) with the instruction to only lick it and not eat the sprig further, a peculiar start. Licking the sprig of thyme (if that's what it was) didn't really give a "wow" feeling but felt more like licking a sprig of thyme. The other three dishes were presented nicely, but we also didn't get the sensation that our taste buds were being played with, not bad, but certainly not an angel cycling over your tongue, as we say in the Netherlands when describing very pleasant flavors. Afterward, we were shown to our table, and the dishes were served one by one. The concept of experiencing sight, touch, and taste was emphasized as we were encouraged to eat with our hands, and the presentation of the dishes was unique. We had chosen the wine pairing with our meal, and each course was accompanied by a different wine. After several courses, we both found that the structure and taste of the dishes were often unconventional. In fact, most dishes were perceived as unpleasant by our taste buds. Inquiring with the serving staff consistently led to the response that this was part of the concept (non-standard), and further questioning did not yield a positive response regarding what the staff thought of the dishes. We gave the concept a fair chance, but the fact that some dishes elicited a gag reflex was the last thing we expected in a 2-star restaurant. We informed the serving staff that we did not want the remaining courses, and the wine was being served at a rapid pace. We also informed the sommelier that we had had enough. Despite ending the evening prematurely, we were not asked why. Instead, after presenting the bill, there was an expression of hope that we would return someday. All in all, it was a very expensive experience that we absolutely did not anticipate, considering the two Michelin stars the restaurant has. Taste is subjective, but during our dining experience at Heston Blumenthal's restaurant, we did not have this kind of experience. All in all, we are very disappointed. To express our disappointment to Mugaritz, I sent a detailed email outlining our experience. Mugaritz's response was as follows: "Besides the taste, there are other aspects of a dish that are important: the texture, the temperature, the story behind the dish, what it provokes, what it awakens in the diner, and so on. Since we opened our doors, we are aware that the path we have chosen makes us take certain risks due to the particularity of our approach, and we are aware that precisely for this reason, we cannot please everyone”. That is, of course, honest, and there is no further argument to be made about it. It's just a shame that when you go for a meal, taste at Mugaritz doesn't really play a role. This statement was not mentioned during the 24 Kitchen program or on the Mugaritz website, and that could have possibly influenced our choice for this restaurant. We do, after all, enjoy 'delicious tasting' food, even if it is not recognized as such. The purpose of this review is to provide people with an honest warning that if you have to save up for this (the bill for two people comes very close to four figures, not including the travel you might have to undertake to reach the restaurant), you might want to consider a different choice.
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