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😒 3/5 - Not so much
By 👻 @sandbag7, 09/10/2021 3:00 am
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I waited a long time to try Next; I liked the idea of it, but not the chef. I experienced Grant Achatz at Trio in Evanston where he succeeded top chefs including Rick Tramonto. I had enjoyed many fine meals at Trio and its predecessor Cafe Provencal, but Grant put a stop to that. His mini courses made it impossible to enjoy the accompanying wine pairing requiring you to guzzle the wine. Not much fun.
Back to Next. The idea of a 10 year greatest hits menu was appealing so I took the bait and made a reservation for 2. We did not order a pairing because I was concerned about portion sizes, but that turned out to be a non issue or more precisely a different issue. We had a glass of champagne and later a Pinot glass which was at $30 a little pricey. We were allowed a taste of the Pinot before serving but not of the Champagne poured by a different server, but both were tasty.
The dinner started with a cone of Salmon tartar to be eaten in 2 bites; nice but not memorable. The second El Bulli course was an amalgamation including Cauliflower which was mostly puzzling with no strong flavors. The third course "childhood" was a decent halibut in a cute setting but, unlike any fish and chips I would order, the halibut was not battered. It was pleasant but I'll take the battered kind any day.
The Hunt (sturgeon caviar) was a very good course. The next course supposedly modeled after Trio was a very salty Black Truffle emulsion, a miss. The following course utilized my favorite ingredient foie gras, but muddled its flavors to an unforgivable degree. The accompanying Squab was served rare in a sweet pepper sauce but had little natural flavor. Try Moody Tongue for a much better take on both Squab and Foie Gras.
Now we come to the main entree "Chicago Steak" 5 thick slices (including a really weird looking end slice) of what was described as Allen Brothers beef with accompaniments. It was way too much and though the meat was rare it was not juicy or flavorful and the accompanying sauces were mediocre. The meat had little marbling and seemed to have been cooked Sous Vide style which I intensely dislike. Most of this course was left.
The two dessert courses, a Basque Cheesecake and a Alinea Tabletop Dessert were very very good, but not enough to save the meal.
Service was okay but nothing special and we didn't get a water refill until asking.
The setting was okay, but a little cafeteria-like and became noisy; this is not like Ever or Oriole, where the food demands your respect.
All in all i feel this was not a Michelin experience, and compared to another Chicago one star, Temporis, is missing the mark. It needs some attention and will not be able to live off its sister restaurant forever.
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