(Seafood theme)Beautiful, provocative and engaging, but - Next Restaurant Chicago - Buy Reservations
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😒 3/5 - (Seafood theme)Beautiful, provocative and engaging, but
By 👻 @Karen Y., 10/26/2022 3:00 am
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(Seafood theme)Beautiful, provocative and engaging, but ultimately incohesive in flavor pairings and meal progression. Service is extremely attentive and welcoming. The ambiance is themed to be like "under the sea", to complement their seafood theme; the dark lights and blue hues add an intimate ambiance. 1. Caviar sando: this little sandwich is extremely rich and pungent in flavor from the uni and caviar. While the milk bread provides a soft and mild vehicle for the stronger flavors, the uni overpowers any other flavor in the sando. The heaping of caviar on top is rather gratuitous; the flavor is buried by the uni, and the salt from the caviar just makes the whole bite extremely pungent. The uni filling is not only thick and pervasive in each bite, but the creamy texture swallows up any other ingredient or flavor.2. New England clam chowder / pearlescent oyster: beautiful presentation! The edible glitter on the oyster may stain your fingers, however. The clam chowder is silky smooth, not too heavy, and extremely flavorful while staying light in texture. The oyster is more sour than expected; the sourness takes away from the meaty flavor of the chowder. 3. Braided gulf cobia: this was the highlight of the meal! The crunchy freshness and acidity give you a refreshing breather in between rich and heavy courses. The texture of the cobia is a little chewy with a bit of ocean brine flavor. The sweet and sour peanut dipping sauce is much thicker than a sauce; it's almost like a dough. 4. Candled king crab: the light sweetness of the crab is complemented by the candied bits at the bottom of the plate, which add texture without flavor. The texture of the crab is chewy and soft, and mild in flavor.5. Belly mussels: this was the lowest point of the meal. The pork belly is extremely tough and chewy. There is almost a licorice-y taste present in the dish from all the dark, sour flavor components. The rice cakes are tough, the daikon is sour and spicy, and the black garlic strips just add even more garlicky, strong flavors to the dish. There isn't any reprieve from the loudness of all the bold flavors clashing with each other; a fresh component is desperately needed here.6. Giant blue prawn / maakouda batata: The prawn is creamy, a little crunchy and chewy, with a light smokiness that hits the palate afterwards. It's a bit annoying to have to pull the meat out of the shell yourself. The cous cous is a bit sour, but the nutty flavor ameliorates it. The red sauce is spicy and forward, and pairs well with the prawn. The maakouda batata biscuit is much oilier than I expected.7. Lobster course: Again, a fresh element is desperately needed here as a reprieve from the overwhelming richness. The foam soup base is a fun textural element, but when the bubbles pop, you're left with an incoherent melting pot of richness. The lobster mushrooms are almost crunchy (strange...) in texture, and salty in flavor. The lobster itself is very rich, and a little chewy. A balance in flavor and texture is needed here; otherwise, you get lost in the abundance of umami.8. Chilled lobster dumpling: This one-bite of a dumpling packs a punch! The flavor is balanced; the lobster provides a light sweetness, while the puffed rice adds a fun crunchiness. The skin of the dumpling is sticky and soft, and holds everything together well to pop it into your mouth. 9. Mediterranean turbot troncon: This fish is so tender! There is the same smoky, pointed, sour flavor present in the mussels dish in here. The truffle has light and nutty flavor. The skin of the fish is not crispy, but rather chewy. The broth is thick and creamy, and overpowers the fennel pollen. I got some bone in my fish, which was a surprise to spit out. 10. Yellowfin tuna: The texture of the tuna is supple, but the flavor is very strongly smokey and salty. The oxtail is tender and falls apart! The potato and mushroom are substantive and carry flavor foward. But again; a fresh element is needed here. 11. Rockweed: The sponge cake is soft and crumbles in your mouth. The blueberry compote is a little oily, but smooth, thin, with a sour/sweetness playing with each other. The nori sponge has the texture of a muffin. The sea lettuce is a bit strange; it tastes lightly brushed with matcha powder, so the bitterness comes out to play at the end.12. Heads or tails: This dessert closed out the meal with an overabundance of sweetness and richness. After 10+ courses of richness, you are faced with a heaping of sugar and cloying sweetness in the form of ice cream, brownie, and jelly. The non-alcoholic drink pairings were all over the place; the majority of them were savory! It's almost like drinking broth with each course. Rather than refreshing the palate, they just confused it. The exceptions to this were the two drinks that balanced freshness with the course they were served with--the floral juice and the pineapple one.Overall, a very unique experience.
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