A Very Good Facsimile Of Core, But Missed Perfection - Oncore by Clare Smyth Barangaroo - Buy Reservations
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🙂 4/5 - A Very Good Facsimile Of Core, But Missed Perfection
By 👻 @SolihullTraveller, 01/25/2023 3:00 am
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Our first visit to Clare Smyth's Australian interpretation of her superb three star London restaurant: Core. My wife and I have been lucky enough to eat there and she still raves about the Potato and roe dish to this day. It's here and happy to say, just as gorgeous down under. The restaurant itself is on the 26th floor of the Crown Hotel which affords guests great views of the bridge and opera house. We also found the welcome excellent and the service all evening was amongst the best I've ever experienced; I don't often say that. Michael particularly, was wonderfully helpful and chatted to us for ages about local cuisine. The menu for Dinner was tasting only (choice of two degustation's mind) and since my wife didn't actually care for either main course options, they were very happy to adjust to her taste. Consisting of seven courses: Fraser Island spanner crab, 'Potato and roe', Roasted coral trout, Cheese and onion, Maremma duck and nectarine, 'Core apple' and 'Core-teser'. My wife also had Murray cod as her main. The best dish was the Potato and roe, it's a signature and rightly so. Gorgeously moreish with a very rich seaweed beurre blanc and adorned with herring & trout roe. It's a potato like nothing you've ever eaten before. The other highlights for me were the Fraser Island spanner crab with a tomato and split basil oil consommé poured over, the Cheese and onion with a very lovely onion broth and the famous 'Core apple' followed by the very pleasant Core-teser; a take on a Malteser chocolate. There were a couple of misses though, I did sort of enjoy the Roasted coral trout but it sat on a very dry swiss chard crust that removed all the moisture on the plate. It became very dry but tasted good. The main issue though was the Duck. It looked really good (as all the dishes did), but it wasn't exactly a triumph. The duck was tough and didn't have a particularly crispy skin. The pretty nectarine fronds covered a dry mix of nothing really and the jus wasn't the best. It was all lacking and not really helped by the fact that I'd had a standout duck dish in a simple London Bistro a few weeks back that puts this to shame. Having said all that, overall, the meal was very good and we also enjoyed the service, ambiance and views very much too. For this seven course tasting menu at AUS $340 a head, glasses of English sparkling wine and a good Pinot, tea and tip, we paid AUS $884 or roughly £500, £250 a head. That's pretty much bang on with Core London, a Michelin three star restaurant and bar a couple of niggles for me, Oncore is pretty close all round. Definitely worth a visit.
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