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🤢 2/5 - How much do you like olive oil? Candidly, I'm not sure how
By 👻 @Thomas W., 12/30/2023 3:00 am
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How much do you like olive oil? Candidly, I'm not sure how the judges granted All'Oro it's star - both my wife and I left both disappointed and disheartened. A Michelin star restaurant is supposed to be an experience to remember - a culinary tour de force. A meal at most Michelin star restaurants is an impeccable experience of creativity, flavor, and service - something that you relay to your friends such that you elicit jealousy from them. It is an experience so special that it justifies the steep price tag. As I write this review, I desperately struggle to recall the high points of the evening aside from my wife's company. All'Oro is al fresco dining. I certainly cannot blame the staff for the fact that we started dinner at 7:45 PM in 96 degree heat, but the lack of any sort of fans or other mechanisms to make the guests even a bit more comfortable was disturbing. I wish I had come in a bathing suit so they could have periodically doused me with cool water. The service - initially- was exactly what you would expect. Attentive- perhaps even a touch overbearing. I kept thinking of John Turturro in Mr. Deeds popping up. I have eaten at many renowned Michelin Star restaurants and I know what to expect. I have also worked professionally in a few restaurants - I am no stranger to high-end cuisine or service. We both decided on the 140 Eu "At the Origin" tasting menu. As a 6'2" 245lb man, I still found myself struggling to keep up with the amount of food presented. Almost a game or challenge of sorts, we were bombarded with dish, after dish, after dish, of small bites, spherifications, miniature this, tiny that. It was initially quite beautiful and "playful," but we quickly grew weary. It was too much - and frankly overwhelming. And then we started to realize there was a hidden theme, a common thread to our meal; there was one ring to rule them all and it was coated in extra virgin olive oil. Dish after dish continued to leave my palette coated with the pervasive fruitiness of fine olive oil. I love olive oil. But with any barrage of fat, there needs to be some acid, and some texture to cut things here and there. A change of pace, a breath of relief. Dish after bite after dish left me with little more than another smooth texture that could be easily consumed by a patron with few or no teeth. Flavors were sometimes intense- perhaps too intense. The cod in my tiramisu was fishy and amplified by notes of olive oil that reminded me of canned mackerel. Oily, foamy, creamy fishy bites. Carbonara was somewhat of a shining star until the barrage of squid ink and - yes, olive oil, on the bottom of the plate again coated my palette to the point of wanting to suck on a lemon. I was so hoping for some textural nuances to appear but they never really did. Yes, we enjoyed crisp spheres of tomato water at one point, but it wasn't enough. Creamy, then oily, then cheesy, then oily, then foamy ... fat on top of fat on top of fat. Can I have some more olive oil please? The service. I would love to say it was great, but it simply wasn't what it should be. The staff were mostly very young and seemed to lack experience and finesse. We were feeling very rushed and specifically had to ask several times for them to slow down so we could take a breath. The young lady at the table next to us was "sprayed" by a poorly opened bottle of prosecco or champagne. Although she took it with a smile, we knew they were disappointed and could overhear much of their conversation. Like us, they found much of the food more challenging than tantalizing. You should never overhear comments like "this isn't so bad," or "does this taste fishy to you?" at a Michelin Star restaurant. The highlight of the evening was sadly neither the food, nor the service but a bottle of 2018 D'Apri Brut. It was nothing short of spectacular and worth every penny - and it paired very well with olive oil. At the end of our night I smiled at my wife and wiped the sweat from my brow for the 26th time. I was excited to go to the bathroom because it was air conditioned. I paid the 500 Euro check and thought to myself, was this worth it? The answer was a resounding and regretful - no. There were so many mistakes, avoidable mistakes that it was difficult not to shake my head in disappointment. I don't need to be subjected to spherifications and edible plastic bags just for the sake of doing them, especially when they don't taste particularly spectacular. The amount of time an effort taken to make a lemon crumble and insert it in an edible bag is impressive, but I would have enjoyed a well made cookie even more. I choked down the last of some Benedictine they brought me (they did not have Grand Marnier ) and luckily that helped wash some of the lingering cod and olive oil flavors from my mouth. On my way home I stopped for an espresso and a Grand Marnier.
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