Sushi by Scratch is an innovative, decidedly untraditional - Sushi Bar Montecito Santa Barbara - Buy Reservations
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😍 5/5 - Sushi by Scratch is an innovative, decidedly untraditional
By 👻 @Steph C., 01/24/2023 3:00 am
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Sushi by Scratch is an innovative, decidedly untraditional sushi restaurant. Matt B. and I went for a late dinner the night after Christmas and had an absolutely wonderful time.We booked our 9:30 Monday night seating almost two weeks in advance. The place is small and popular, one of only two restaurants in Santa Barbara with a Michelin star, so plan ahead if you want to visit. Reservations are through Tock and require a deposit of $25 a person, which gets applied against your check. The meal itself will cost you $145 a person plus alcohol and a nondiscretionary 20% service fee with no additional tip line, a model I always appreciate.Dinner takes about two hours, and it's a delightful experience. We were told we could arrive up to a half hour in advance and enjoy a welcome cocktail in the lobby of the Montecito Inn. This served as a pleasant waiting area for the restaurant, which is a tiny space on the hotel grounds, across the valet stand from the lobby. We were greeted with a fragrant, refreshing cocktail of Japanese whiskey with yuzu and sake, then led to the restaurant when it was time to for the show to begin.The sushi bar was lively and intimate, with ten seats arranged along a counter, behind which three guys named either Brian, Ryan, and Brian or Ryan, Brian, and Ryan prepared our dinner. A fourth guy named Jaime served as host and bartender, and everyone was super friendly and energetic.The food was all omakase, sixteen pieces of sushi with optional add-ons at the end of the night, plus one dessert course. The main decision we had to make was what to drink with our food, and Jaime strongly suggested the beverage pairing, a combination of sake, wine, beer, and cocktails for $110 apiece. This was fun. We got a junmai sake, a creamy dry nigori, an Alsatian white wine, a Japanese-style lager from Goleta, and three cocktails: the Bee's Japanese with smoked honey, yuzu, and Japanese gin; a drink with pomegranate juice, Japanese whiskey, and Portuguese port; and warm sake and matcha tea steeped with umeshu. The pours were so teeny tiny, though, that the pairing ended up feeling like a rip-off. I liked trying different beverages throughout the night, but the total amount of alcohol was about two full drinks. I don't regret doing the pairing, but I'd probably skip it in the future and just order a bottle of sake.The sushi was fantastic, each bite a thoughtful, delicious little creation that highlighted the main ingredient with interesting combinations of supporting flavors. First, there was a neat little tessin hand roll, made with the tail cut of bluefin tuna, ponzu, matcha salt, lemon, and wasabi, with ikura, avocado, and scallion on top. Then, hamachi with sweet corn pudding, sourdough crumbs, and wasabi. Buttery otoro came with pineapple brûléed with brown sugar, as well as a brushing of house soy and wasabi. The scallop with yuzu kosho, poblano peppers, and ponzu was phenomenal. The madai was simple and elegant, finished with sesame chile, ponzu, and scallions.I loved the prawn and the shima aji, which played with the flavors of al pastor and aguachile: the Canadian spot prawn was torched and served with pickled pineapple and ponzu, the shima aji with pickled red onion, lime, and jalapeño kosho. Ora king salmon was meltingly good, with lemon juice, ponzu, matcha salt, and kizami, or pickled wasabi stem. Albacore was dry aged in nori and garlic then topped with crispy onions and ponzu. Kanpachi came with tamarind chile jam, garlic chip, and ponzu. Akami was dry aged and served with soy, salt, wasabi, and a bit of caviar.Matt doesn't eat uni, so I got a double portion of the beautiful Santa Barbara uni with lemon juice, wasabi, and nori. Team Brian/Ryan noticed and gave Matt a nigiri with nori and caviar on the house, which was really nice. Escolar got a hit from the blowtorch and a topping of house-cured ikura and wasabi.The omakase ended with three meatier bites, starting with lightly torched A5 Hida wagyu draped over rice, with pickled white asparagus and chive on top. Then a glistening glob of bone marrow with soy, salt, and kizami. Finally, there was unagi with soy, ponzu, matcha salt, Bali salt, and poblano kosho, as well as a coat of that bone marrow melted on top.This was plenty of food, but we decided to keep it going, letting the chefs try out a couple of newer nigiri instead of revisiting favorite pieces. There was salmon with chili, ponzu, fried onion, yuzu zest, and pickled serrano, then kanpachi with jalapeño, ponzu, serrano powder, jalapeño relish, Bali salt, and lemon juice and zest. Dinner ended with a nigiri-sized dessert of makrut lime ice cream with sesame shortbread cookie, and coconut in a white chocolate shell.Sushi by Scratch feels like a special occasion place, but I'll be tempted to go whenever we're in town and have someone else to watch our kids. It's an extraordinary spot with excellent food and a zestful energy, and I can't wait for our next visit.
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