Potential but plays it to safe - Restaurant 1890 by Gordon Ramsay London - Buy Reservations
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🙂 4/5 - Potential but plays it to safe
By 👻 @Try2BeFairUK, 02/25/2022 3:00 am
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In truth had this restaurant been open for any length of time I would have given it a rating of 3 rather than 4. While there was nothing wrong with the experience, equally there was very little that shone out and announced this restaurant as being anything other than average fine dining in an amazing setting.
The setting is stunning, it has clearly presented some layout issues and the tables by the window being the better options, which we were lucky enough to get, which affords both the chance to look out of the window as well as see the restaurant. If you get a table against the back wall however one person will have the view out of the window and the restaurant, the other essentially looking at the wall, so not ideal but not the end of the world. It should be set the decor and furnishings were superb and such a warm glow, it defiantly felt like you were somewhere special.
The service was friendly and helpful, the sommelier in particular was excellent, he was knowledgeable and approachable and just added a lot to the experience.
Overall service was good although in some ways it did drop as the evening went along.
As you don't get a menu here as its a set tasting menu of 9 courses, they do ask at the start if there is anything that must be avoided due to allergy or dislike, which is tricky without a menu but was handled well. When the courses are served you get a description of what they are and I would say as the evening went along overall it seemed like some staff were getting tired or over the process as details became less and engagement decreased overall, this was not true of the wine pairings and their descriptions, in fact the excellence of this just made the drop off more evident in regards the food service.
In regards the food itself, it would be fair to say the wine was the star of the dinner. The food started off very well, the Chicken Consomme was excellent, both in terms of flavour and presentation.
This was followed by a Jerusalem Artichoke Royale which was probably the most interest course, not what you would expect and a very good balance of flavour and texture.
Other courses were a mix of perfectly ok or not quite right, the Dover sole seemed over cooked, although the sauce with it excellent. The beef was nicely cooked but just a bit dull and certainly didn't feel like it was anything that hasn't been done a 100 times before.
It was actually the desserts that left us more disappointed, the poached quince with the cheese was very nice but there was nothing to cut through or contrast it, the cracker was far to basic and plain, it needed something to set off the flavours. Similar things could be said about the final dessert, lacked any sort of texture and just didn't inspire, nothing overly wrong with it just nothing new, essentially a take on terrys chocolate orange!
With such an amazing space and service that overall was very good, just seeming to run out of energy by the end of the night the restaurant has potential and I am sure as time goes on the menu will evolve and get stronger. It is just a shame that for a restaurant that is meant to celebrate Georges Auguste Escoffier, it seems to have played things to safe and simplified things just a little to far, missing the chance to create something unique form a dining perspective rather than just a setting perspective.
It is still a very enjoyable evening and we would suggest doing a mix of wine pairings, the Discovery Wine Pairing (£90) and the Fine Wine Pairing (£210) as it gives you the chance to fully appreciate the different wines and enjoy the excellent service from the sommelier. For a £650 meal for 2 people however I have to say judged overall it has a long way to go to get close to some of the tasting menus on offer in London, many of which cost a fraction of this. For now it is the location rather than the menu that will be the draw, but given time there is every chance that could change.
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